It should be noted that I have included, in this series of photographs, images of a narrow lane that connects North Princes Street to Middle Abbey Street as well as the GPO Arcade. The laneway is named William’s Lane and while many accounts claim that it is no longer shown on maps I checked Google Maps and it is identified. And while no one appears to know why it is named William’s Lane I am suggesting the following – the name William’s Lane may well be linked to a son of King George, potentially William IV who also served as Duke of Clarence. This would align with the naming of Princes Street (discussed below). I had to visit the area a second time as some images were unusable because they showed homeless people who could be identified and that would have impacted on their right to privacy.
Princes Street North, a historic gem off O’Connell Street, offers a fascinating blend of past and present for locals and visitors alike.
Its roots trace back to Henry Moore, 3rd Earl of Drogheda, who initiated development in the northeastern part of the former St. Mary’s Abbey lands. Moore’s influence is still evident today in the names of nearby streets: Henry Street, Moore Street, and (North) Earl Street.
Originally, the street we now know as Upper O’Connell Street was called Drogheda Street. Unlike today’s bustling O’Connell Street, this street was narrower and primarily residential. The section of O’Connell Street extending to the present-day location of the Spire was part of Drogheda Street.
Luke Gardiner’s Transformation:
In the mid-18th century, Luke Gardiner acquired much of the old Moore estates in northern Dublin. Gardiner, known for developing Dublin’s first Georgian street (Henrietta Street), turned his attention to Drogheda Street. He demolished existing housing and replaced it with elegant Georgian townhouses. The street was widened to its current size, allowing for a central mall where affluent residents could promenade and display their finery.
The name changed from Drogheda Street to Sackville Mall or Sackville Street, honouring Lionel Sackville, the Duke of Dorset, who served as Lord Lieutenant of Ireland.
Princes Street North Origins
Princes Street North, situated just off O’Connell Street, has a fascinating history. It is believed to have been developed in part by the Dominick family, who played a significant role in shaping the area. [I have had difficulty confirming the Dominick family’s role] Princes Street North derives its name from the sons of King George III. Specifically, it honours the Duke of Rothesay (the title given to the heir apparent to the British throne) and the Duke of York. These royal titles were bestowed upon the sons of King George III during the late 18th century.
Freemans Journal
The office of the Freeman’s Journal was located on Princes Street North in Dublin’s city centre. During the 1916 Easter Rising, the building was heavily damaged.
Today, only one original property on Princes Street remains, preserving its historical significance
Metropole Cinema and Capitol Theatre
Metropole Cinema: Located on O’Connell Street, the Metropole Cinema opened in 1922. It was once a vibrant venue, hosting films and events. The Metropole was taken over by the Rank Organisation in the 1950s and screened popular movies like “Doctor Zhivago” and “Mary Poppins.” Unfortunately, it closed its doors in 1972.
Capitol Theatre: Originally known as the La Scala Theatre and Opera House, the Capitol Theatre stood on Prince’s Street, adjacent to the Metropole Cinema. Designed by architect T. F. McNamara, it featured a 1,900-seat auditorium with two balconies and 32 private boxes. Despite its name, La Scala was primarily a cinema. In 1927, Paramount Pictures took over the lease and renamed it the Capitol. The Capitol hosted live shows alongside film screenings. Notable Irish acts graced its stage. The last stage show occurred in 1953, and it continued as a cinema until 1972.
Demolition and Transformation: Both the Metropole Cinema and the Capitol Theatre were demolished. In their place, the British Home Stores (now occupied by Penneys) was constructed.
The GPO Arcade Is Off Princes Street North
The General Post Office was most famously the rebel stronghold in the 1916 Easter Rising. It, along with much of O’Connell Street Lower, was reduced to a burnt-out shell. The building was only cleared of debris in 1924 when the Free State government approved reconstruction plans, carried out principally by T.J. Byrne and J. Fairweather and reopened in 1929.
The GPO Arcade is an Art Deco-style shopping arcade situated at the rear of the General Post Office (GPO) complex. Accessible from both Henry Street and Princes Street North, this arcade has a unique charm that draws visitors and shoppers. The arcade was built by the Office of Public Works following the 1916 Easter Rising. Its construction aimed to enhance the GPO area and provide a covered shopping space for Dubliners. The GPO Arcade boasts an elegant design with polygonal glazed roofing. Its architecture reflects the Art Deco style prevalent during the early 20th century.
Medieval Origins: Liffey Street traces its roots back to Dublin’s medieval period. It formed a significant route connecting the city centre to the River Liffey’s quays, a bustling hub of trade and commerce.
Commercial Importance: Over centuries, Liffey Street evolved into a major commercial thoroughfare. It was lined with shops, warehouses, and businesses catering to the city’s growing population.
Architectural Variety: The architecture along both sections of Liffey Street presents a mix of styles. You can find Georgian buildings, Victorian structures, and more modern additions, reflecting the street’s changing face through the ages.
Upper Liffey Street Redevelopment, which was announced in January 2023 and has now been, more-or-less, been completed.
Project Overview:
Objective: To enhance the pedestrian experience and create a more vibrant urban environment. Cost: Approximately €6.5 million. Timeline: Construction began in January 2023 and has recently been completed.
Key Features:
Pedestrian Plaza: A new pedestrian plaza was developed beside the iconic Ha’penny Bridge on Liffey Street. This is a bit misleading as it is Lower Liffey Street that is closet to the bridge. [I suspect that the source of the information did not realise that “lower” means closer to the river and “upper means further from the river]
Upgraded Environment:
Liffey Street Upper [the Plaza] : Closed to traffic, this section now features benches, bicycle stands, and trees. Liffey Street Lower: Upgraded to create a more “pedestrian-friendly” environment. Currently, Liffey Street Lower is open to southbound traffic from Abbey Street to the quays. According to some reports the final configuration will mean that traffic on Abbey Street, including cars exiting the Arnotts car park, will no longer be able to access the quays via Liffey Street Lower. Instead, vehicles will need to turn right onto Strand Street and continue to Capel Street to reach the quays at Grattan Bridge. [Getting accurate information that I can verify has been impossible]
Completion Date:
The project was to be completed by the end of the year following its commencement in January 2023. It would appear that is not yet fully complete and this is especially true for lower Liffey street.
Pedestrian access was maintained during the construction period.
Background:
The idea for a Northside plaza emerged after the refusal of the College Green plaza project by An Bord Pleanála in 2018. Unlike the College Green scheme, the Liffey Street project was progressed through Dublin City Council’s internal planning process. The plans underwent public consultation and were approved by city councillors in September 2019. Although initially scheduled for mid-2020 completion, work was delayed due to the Covid-19 pandemic. This revitalised space now offers Dubliners and visitors a pleasant area to stroll, rest, and enjoy the cityscape.
Someone asked the following question online on the same day as I visited Francis Street
[Question] I am an American and I plan to attend the Patrick’s Day Parade in Dublin I am bringing four young children, and my husband. Some friends recommended that I stay at a hotel on Francis Street but others told me that it is not safe at night. What is your recommendation []
Here is the response: While Francis Street in Dublin has a rich history and is known for its antique shops, there are some valid concerns about staying in the area with young children, especially for St. Patrick’s Day. [Note: I am not sure about some of the alternatives that were suggested]
Concerns about Francis Street:
Reputation: Parts of Francis Street and the surrounding Liberties area have a historical reputation for social problems like drug use and petty crime. While the area has undergone changes, these elements can still be present.
Nighttime activity: The area can get lively at night, especially during events like St. Patrick’s Day, which may not be the most suitable atmosphere for young children.
Limited amenities: Depending on the specific hotel, you may find fewer child-friendly amenities and attractions in the immediate vicinity. Why you might consider staying elsewhere for St. Patrick’s Day
Crowds and noise: The parade route passes through the city centre, and areas surrounding it will be extremely crowded and noisy, which can be difficult to manage with young children.
Safety concerns: While direct risk may be low, large crowds and celebrations can increase the chance of minor issues like getting separated from children.
Alternative Areas to Consider:
Here are some more family-friendly areas of Dublin, still within a reasonable distance of the St. Patrick’s Day festivities:
Temple Bar: Lively, but with lots of family-friendly hotels and restaurants. A bit closer to the parade route. Ballsbridge: A more upscale area with parks and a calmer atmosphere. Good public transport connections to the city center. Smithfield/Stoneybatter: These neighborhoods on the north side of the River Liffey offer a mix of historic charm and trendy spots, with a bit more space than the city center.
About Francis Street:
Francis Street is a historic street in the Liberties area of Dublin. It’s known for its antique shops and its proximity to St. Patrick’s Cathedral. While it’s an interesting area to visit during the daytime, it may not be the most suitable for a family stay during a major festival.
Overall Recommendation
For a comfortable and safe family experience during St. Patrick’s Day, I’d recommend opting for a hotel in one of the alternative areas mentioned above. This gives you better access to the festivities while providing a more suitable environment for your young children.
The South Quays’ relatively open space offers an unobstructed view of the North Quays, making it an ideal vantage point for a street photographer like myself. Armed with my Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max, I captured the contrasting architectural styles: the grandeur of the Four Courts and the old Church On Araan Quay which is discussed below.
History
Built between 1835 and 1837, shortly after Catholic Emancipation, a time where Catholics gained increased rights to build prominent places of worship. Designed by Patrick Byrne, a significant architect of Catholic churches in Ireland during this era. He also designed St. Audoen’s Catholic Church nearby.
Saint Paul’s forms a historic and visual focal point on Arran Quay. Designed by Patrick Byrne, it was built soon after Catholic Emancipation, when the Roman Catholic Church was beginning to build visible high-status buildings. Its tall Italianate bell and clock tower provides visual as well as contextual interest, with the inclusion of a clock, which was more common on Protestant Churches, implying a sense of public responsibility and thus increasing the status of the building.
The elegant detailing on the portico, as well as the later figures to the pediment (Joseph Robinson Kirk, c.1870), provide decorative and technical interest to the façade, and are testament to the skill and craftsmanship of stone workers and sculptors in the nineteenth century.
The very fine classical interior, with a wealth of quality materials and craftsmanship, adds to the overall architectural importance of this ecclesiastical site, despite the removal of some features such as the altar rails. Eamonn and Sinead De Valera were married here in 1910, adding a certain historical significance to the building.
Artistic interest is added by the altar, by Farrell (before 1863), and a copy of Rubens Conversion of St. Paul by F.S. Barff (1863), which replaced an earlier representation of the crucifixion. The church had fallen into disuse, although currently it is used for some Catholic services as well as Syrian Orthodox services and Taize prayer.
Note: St. Paul’s is no longer the parish church. However, it is still used by a Catholic youth group and the St. Gregrorios Jacobite Syrian Christian Church.
Connolly Station, also known as Dublin Connolly, is the busiest railway station in Ireland, serving as a vital hub for both domestic and international travel [is a train every two hours to Belfast international travel?]. Situated in the heart of Dublin city centre, the station is a bustling gateway to Ireland’s rich history, culture, and natural beauty.